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Toques from Underground
In this week’s food issue, Dana Goodyear writes about the rise of secret supper clubs, and visits Wolvesmouth, the underground Los Angeles restaurant run by the chef Craig Thornton out of his apartment: “Around the world, cooks, both trained and not, are hosting sporadic, legally questionable supper clubs and dinner parties in unofficial spaces,” whose goal “is not seduction; it is experience”.Photograph by Jessica Craig-Martin.
